Meet the chef who’s debunking detox, diets and wellness

Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness

Anthony Warner alias blogger turned author the Angry Chef is on a mission to confront the alternative facts surrounding nutritional fads and myths

Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness

A few minutes into my encounter with the Angry Chef, I begin to wonder if his moniker might be ironic, like the big guy whose friends call him Tiny. On the basis of his excoriating blog which exposes lies, pretensions and folly in the world of food I had been expecting a bilious, splenetic human with wild eyes, his skin contained within tattoos. Instead, Im sat across from a mild-mannered nerdy type with a tidy beard and black-framed spectacles. Unlike his writing, which is showered with profanities, he hasnt sworn once. In fact, he picks his terms very deliberately, as if theres a legal and fact-checking team working overtime in his brain.

I expected you to be a bit more furious, I eventually say. Do you have a temper?

The Angry Chef, aka 44 -year-old Anthony Warner, considers this, shakes his head. Not at all, he says. People who know me and ensure the blog say, Youre not angry at all! No, I was never one of the shouty, scary cooks. Perhaps slightly intimidating sometimes, but only in a quiet, I-dont-know-what-hes-going-to-do sort of way.

What about the swearing? I ask.

I can if you want, Warner replies. But no, I dont rant, I dont swear nearly as much in real life as I do on my blog.

The Angry Chefs first post on 30 December 2015 consisted of a few pointed thinks on going sugar-free. He was anonymous back then and there were a couple of reasons for that. Warner liked the relevant recommendations of writing in character: while he stands by everything he writes, the Angry Chef persona allows him to be more confrontational and unhinged. The other reason was that he wasnt sure what his bosses would think of his new creation. After a decade as a decent but unremarkable chef in professional kitchens, Warner became a development cook for Premier Foods, a large commercial food manufacturer. He has spent the last 10 years generating recipes for the likes of Oxo, Mr Kipling, Loyd Grossman and Ambrosia.

This anonymity did not last long. The Angry Chefs railing against the trend for clean-eating and wellness bloggers, his annoyance at the miraculous properties assigned to kale and coconut petroleum quickly observed an audience. The Sun asked Warner to be involved in an article about Insta-gurus diet advice, and Ben Goldacre, one of his anti-pseudoscience heroes, tweeted his approval. New Scientist commissioned Warner to write for them, a gratify nod for a self-described science geek who has a degree in biochemistry from Manchester University.

Now a book, The Angry Chef: Bad Science and the Truth About Healthy Eating , is out next month. It is a systematic, densely footnoted, and often very funny takedown of pretty much every food fad that has taken hold in recent years: detox, alkaline, ash and paleo diets among them. If you believe superfoods exist, then Warner will have some strong terms to build you reconsider. Likewise, if youre convinced theres no possible defense for sugar or processed food, then he wants you to take another look at the evidence.

Hemsley - Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness
Melissa and Jasmine Hemsley: Id be fascinated to debate them, says Warner. Photograph: Publicity Image

In an age of Gwyneth Paltrows Goop, of Deliciously Ella Mills, and Hemsley and Hemsley, these somehow seem quite radical ideas. A lot of the clean-eating people, I just think they have a broken relationship with the truth, says Warner. Theyre selling something that is impossible to justify in the context of evidence-based medicine.

I dont guess any of them are lying, he goes on, they are just stuck in this strange world of false belief, which is fascinating. How can you look at NHS guidelines on how to eat healthily and run, Well, I know better than that? Maybe if only we a prof of dietetics or nutrition, you might disagree with some stuff. But how as a 19 -year-old blogger you can look at it and go, No, thats wrong. This is right, I dont know.

How did we arrive at a place where avocados outsell oranges, where coconut oil, a once-cheap saturated fat, is reborn as a super-ingredient with miraculous, health-giving properties?( Paltrows website Goop also proposes use it as a mouthwash and sexual lubricant, inspiring Warner to joke, Separately, I hope .)

For Warner, the members of the explanation is adapted of psychologist Daniel Kahnemans theory that people are brilliant at generate a narrative from minimal evidence. Kahneman calls the brain a machine for jumping to conclusions.

We genuinely struggle with uncertainty, explains Warner. We really want to be able to say: Is coffee good or bad for us? Well, its not good or bad for you, it just is. And we have to accept that; thats what science says. So your brain runs, I dont like that level of uncertainty. Certainty is really appealing for a lot of people and thats what a lot of these people are selling certainly at the darker end.

Warner accepts he faces a tough challenge convincing people with his boring message. We live in the so-called post-truth world: a hour of Brexit, Trump and alternative facts. Guardian columnist Hadley Freeman has even written that Deliciously Ella is the precursor to Donald Trump. In the book, Warner admits that he sometimes feel like a drunk in a tavern car park, raging and swaying at the world.

When you go back 20 years it was Gillian McKeith, says Warner. Now its harder to fight. Theres not specific someones, theres a swarm of them in so many different places, on Instagram, on social media, things I dont even understand as a middle-aged man.

Facts are important, he continues. The rhetoric of a lot of politics at the moment is that there was this once-great world we need to return to. And its actually not true. In almost every single measure, were better off than we were 100 years ago, or even 50 years ago. Weve wiped out smallpox and set someone on the moon with science, if “youre beginning to” rejecting that

Warner trails off, the closest hes come to living up to his angry tag. Would he be interested in debating this subject with Ella Mills or the Hemsleys?

From what I understand theyll avoid me at all costs, says Warner. Id find it fascinating, but people will perhaps be surprised. If Im asked, Is a particular food good or bad for you? Im not going to give an answer. I dont feel I have superior knowledge, I actually accept that I dont. Thats the distinction between me and them. So it might be a strange debate.

This is true. Warners advice, boiled down, amounts to: eat a sensible and varied diet , not too much nor too little. If you have junk food every so often, dont feel guilty; if youre going full Morgan Spurlock, youre likely overdoing it. Eat fish, especially oily ones such as salmon and mackerel, when you can. Dont consume too much sugar, but equally dont believe people who tell you its toxic and had not yet been nutritional value.

Chef - Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness
Chef Anthony Warner alias blogger turned author the Angry Chef. Photograph: Phil Fisk for the Observer

The rhetoric that sugar is poison, its killing us, has become completely accepted, says Warner. Were told its just empty calories. Well, we kind of need calories to live. But a lot of people will read that and say, He would say that. He works for a big cake manufacturer.

How would he respond to that then?

Well, demonstrate me incorrect then you cant! Warner shoots back. Im always going to be accused of being a shill for the food manufacturing industry. Within the job I do, you get very exposed to prejudice that people have against the manufacturers of food. And also you get very exposed to whats involved in attaining manufactured food, and what you can and cant say about something to its implementation of its health benefits. If I made a food product and I wanted to say it detoxes you, I absolutely couldnt. There are really clear laws: I cant said today in the advertising, I cant say it on the pack, I cant make any sort of assert that isnt tremendously backed in evidence.

But if I wrote a recipe volume, I can say what I want, Warner continues. If I went on telly, I could say, This recipe is truly detoxing. You can build stuff up, it doesnt matter. But then you get to the ad transgres, people advertising cant say those things because theyre covered by statute. So why arent the person or persons constructing the programmes covered by statute?

To be fair, Warner is pretty angry now. And hes not exactly optimistic that what he says will induce much difference to acolytes of clean eating. I believe fads will continue, often merely a recycling of the low-carb Atkins-style dieting under different names like those ketogenic diets, high-fat diets, he sighs.

Theyll only change the name and the pseudoscientific justifications for it. So yeah, there will probably always be something to write about. Warner smiles, And that will construct me angry.

The Angry Chef on five food myths


Detoxing
When people say, Im detoxing, what theyre saying is, Im not eating for two days. Its merely an extreme weight-loss diet, but you make up toxins that arent there and say, Im doing this to get rid of these toxins which your body will do naturally anyway. It generates dread around food.

Eat like a caveman
The paleo diet is just a low-carb diet to have a pseudoscientific justification.Weve been feeing carbohydrates for a long time, but theyll just go, Well, a caveman ate meat. They have this idea from The Flintstones , but anyone who works in anthropology will say, No, theyre plainly wrong.

Home-cooked food is always best
Its linked to wanting females to get back into the kitchen: Natural home-cooked dinners are the only way to be healthy Things were better before females went to work. Underlying the demonisation of convenience food, there is a lot of misogyny. Things were better in our grandmothers day were they?

Sugar is toxic
Sugar has an enormous amount of energy and is one of the most important building blocks for life. But they say, It has no nutritional value. That makes absolutely no sense.

Dont eat processed food
People will have a ready-meal from Waitrose and say, Im busy. Then theyll say poor people should just stop buying fishfingers: But I can go to M& S and buy my haddock goujons, thats not bad for me, is it?

Angry-chef.com

The Angry Chef: Bad Science and the Truth About Healthy Eating( Oneworld, 12.99) is published on 6 July. To order a transcript for 11.04, go to bookshop.theguardian.com or call 0330 333 6846 . Free UK p& p over 10, online orders merely. Telephone orders min. p& p of 1.99.

Read more: www.theguardian.com

Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness
Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness
Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness
Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness
Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness

Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness

Meet The Chef Who's Debunking Detox, Diets And Wellness

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